A Morning on Devenish Island with Erne Water Taxi

I’ve wanted to visit Devenish Island for years. I’m a regular visitor to Enniskillen, and not just for the shopping, although that’s pretty good too. There’s so much to see and do that it’s well worth planning a day trip.

I booked the Pilgrim’s Pass through the Erne Water Taxi website. It includes a return boat trip to Devenish Island, a guided tour of the island, and entry to Enniskillen Castle. I’ve visited the castle several times before, but it’s always worth another look. There are also two new exhibitions on at the moment: Beyond by Fermanagh artist Douglas Hutton and Living at Drumclay: A Glimpse of Life on a Fermanagh Crannog.

My boat was due to leave at 10am, so I arrived early to park and validate my ticket at the castle. I was feeling quite excited until the lady at reception mentioned that the yellow water taxi was a speedboat.

Cue mild panic.

I’m not a fan of boats. It’s one of the reasons I’ve never gone puffin spotting or on a whale-watching trip. Normally I’d research every detail before I book anything, but for some reason I hadn’t even thought about what sort of boat we’d be travelling on.

Thankfully, I had nothing to worry about.

At the jetty I met Andy, our skipper. I admitted I wasn’t the most confident on the water, and he immediately put me at ease. He explained the journey only took around 15 minutes and that we wouldn’t be travelling at high speed. Life jacket on, and off we went.

It turned out I was the only passenger, apart from Colin, who is the Ambassador on Devenish Island.

I started the journey sitting at the front of the boat for the best views and photographs. As we cruised along, Andy pointed out places of interest around Enniskillen and told me about the history of the island town and its 600-year-old castle, built by Hugh Maguire.

We also passed the Island Discovery, Ireland’s first fully electric passenger boat. Powered by solar panels, it’s used for wildlife tours because it’s almost silent, and it’s fully accessible, accommodating up to six wheelchair users without ramps.

We also saw the speed boat that was used in James Bond film – The World is Not Enough – cool! It also happens to be for sale!

Further along the Erne, Andy pointed out Portora Royal School, now Enniskillen Royal Grammar School, where Oscar Wilde was educated between the ages of 10 and 17.

We also passed Portora Castle, which I’d never even heard of before. There’s a brilliant story behind it, but I’ll leave that for you to discover on the tour.

Before long, Andy suggested I move inside the boat as we were about to pick up a little speed. It wasn’t anything dramatic, but I was happy enough watching the water spray from the comfort of my seat.

When we arrived at Devenish Island, the silence was the first thing I noticed. Apart from me, Andy and Colin, there was nobody else there.

Founded in the 6th century by St. Molaise, Devenish is one of the most important monastic sites on Lough Erne. The 25-metre round tower dominates the island.

You can’t climb it, but it’s impressive from every angle. Colin handed me his binoculars so I could admire the carved heads at the top.

We explored the Augustinian Abbey, the high cross, the graveyard and the small museum, while Andy shared stories about the island and the people who once lived there.

Andy also pointed out the original stone carving of the Virgin Mary on the cross and the replica above the southwest doorway of St Mary’s Augustinian Priory.

Eventually another boat arrived with around 20 visitors, but even then the island never felt crowded.

Listening to the stories of monastic life, I couldn’t help wondering what archaeologists might uncover if more of the island was excavated. Then again, perhaps part of its charm is that so much has been left untouched.

We saw the Stone Coffin – known as ‘St Molaise’s Bed’. Apparently if you turn over three times you will gain wisdom and wishes. The only wisdom that I’d gain is that my backside was too big for it, and sure I already know that.

After the guided tour I had time to wander around on my own before heading back to the boat.

Then came the highlight of my morning. A kingfisher flashed across the water.

I’d never seen one before. We’d been keeping an eye out on the journey over, but without any luck. It disappeared far too quickly for a photograph, although Andy showed me a fantastic photo he’d taken of a kingfisher family the previous year.

Back in Enniskillen, I said goodbye to Andy and had another wander around the castle. I didn’t stay too long as they were setting up for a festival the following day, but that’s as good an excuse as any to come back.

I had a brilliant morning and I’d recommend the Pilgrim’s Pass to anyone visiting Enniskillen. I only wish I’d done it years ago.

As always, this isn’t a sponsored post. I paid for my ticket and was very happy to do so. Find out more about Erne Water Taxis, Enniskillen Castle and the Lough Erne Pilgrim Way.