Jono and I have just returned from a short trip to Germany. Jono used to love travelling, but his health has made it more difficult in recent years. After successfully managing an overnight trip to Bristol, we decided to try another trip.
Germany ticked a few boxes. We can fly directly from Ireland West Airport, which is just down the road and very convenient for us, and while Japan remains on Jono’s travel wish list, the journey would be too much. Düsseldorf’s famous Little Tokyo district felt like the next best thing.
As I’ve said many times before, I love Ireland West Airport – and Ryanair. We booked special assistance for Jono and, as always, the staff were kind, caring and efficient. The flight took around 1 hour and 15 minutes, and we arrived ahead of schedule.
The first challenge came almost immediately. There’s a train station at Cologne Airport, but nobody around to ask about tickets. We managed to navigate the ticket machine and, with some help from fellow Irish passengers, found the correct platform. Later, I realised there were screens displaying all the information we needed. Luckily the station at the airport is small, so you can’t really go wrong.
From the airport we travelled to Cologne Central Station, which was busy, noisy and a bit overwhelming. I asked a platform attendant whether I needed to go upstairs to buy tickets for Düsseldorf. “I don’t know, you tell me,” was the reply. Not exactly helpful.
Upstairs we went, after waiting our turn for a very small lift that was also serving people with bikes and prams. Thankfully, the staff at the information centre were much more accommodating. We bought our tickets, got directions to the correct platform and the staff member even held the door open while I manoeuvred the wheelchair. One thing to note: this desk only accepted cash, although the ticket machines take cards.
Düsseldorf station was every bit as busy, but it’s an impressive place, packed with shops and activity. Like any large transport hub, it’s worth keeping your wits about you.
We stayed at the Premier Inn, which is increasingly becoming my hotel chain of choice. It’s right beside the central station, so we didn’t have to walk far. Everyone we dealt with was friendly and helpful, in fact when the receptionist spotted the wheelchair, she gave us an accessible room, which made life much easier for Jono.
Our first stop was Menzels, a model railway shop around a twenty minute walk. Unfortunately, the pavements were uneven and the dropped kerbs weren’t particularly dropped. Jono endured a fairly bumpy ride and I nearly tipped him out of the wheelchair more than once.
After browsing and making a few purchases, we headed back to the hotel. My first impressions of Düsseldorf were mixed. There seemed to be a noticeable number of people sleeping rough and begging, and parts of the city felt a bit grubby.
While Jono rested, I went exploring and spent some time wandering around a nearby park.
Dinner was in the Premier Inn restaurant, mainly because it was convenient. The menu is limited – think soup and pizza rather than anything more exciting, but it did the job, and it saved us venturing out again. The self-service shop in the foyer was less impressive. Nearly five euro for a small bottle of water! Our first night was noisy, thanks to guests running through corridors, banging doors and shouting, but otherwise it was comfortable.
On Sunday we spent part of the day exploring Little Tokyo, where Jono was already planning which shops he wanted to revisit. We couldn’t go shopping because almost all shops close on Sundays in Germany, apart from those in train stations and airports. Cafés and restaurants remain open, though.
We when they reopened on Monday. He also finally got to try Taiyaki, they are fish-shaped pastries filled with sweet or savoury fillings and cooked fresh while you wait.
While he rested later, I headed to the Hofgarten, which became one of my favourite places of the trip. It was peaceful, green and full of wildlife, including the famous green parrots and countless rabbits. I wandered along the Rhine and treated myself to an ice cream sundae.
Things were going perfectly until I smiled at a nearby dog. Its owner promptly shouted at me. Apparently interacting with dogs isn’t encouraged. Personally, I’d argue smiling from a distance barely counts as interaction, but there we are. The couple quickly returned to enthusiastically snogging each other’s faces off while I sat there feeling awkward until I could pay and leave.
The following morning I returned to the Hofgarten to say hello to the wildlife once again. One thing I quickly learned in Germany is how much I take Irish friendliness for granted. Eye contact, casual conversation and random chats with strangers aren’t really part of everyday life there. Apart from a polite “please” and “thank you” in shops, most people seemed happy to keep to themselves.
Back in Little Tokyo, however, the atmosphere was completely different. The shop staff were warm and welcoming, and Jono even managed a conversation in Japanese with one of the assistants, who replied in Japanese. He was delighted. It felt like stepping into another country.
Soon it was time to leave Düsseldorf and return to Cologne, where we planned to spend our final night before an early flight home.
We headed to the station, but the lift to our platform wasn’t working, so I ended up carrying the wheelchair up a flight of stairs. It wasn’t for the faint-hearted. Once again, I found myself comparing it to Ireland, where somebody would almost certainly have offered to help. But when you’re travelling, you adapt and get on with it.
We had time to explore Cologne before heading to the airport and I immediately loved it. It’s very touristy, but also very beautiful.
The first thing you see when you leave the station is Cologne Cathedral, an absolutely magnificent building that dominates the skyline. We explored a few shops, including a fantastic toy shop selling everything from pre-loved video games to My Little Pony figures and Beanie Babies. We also visited another model railway shop and enjoyed lunch in a friendly burger restaurant.
Later we took the train back to Cologne Airport, where we were staying at the Moxy Hotel, directly opposite the terminal. As part of the Marriott group, my expectations were fairly high. That turned out to be a mistake, it is a quirky hotel, but there could be some improvements when it comes to the staff.
Check-in is on the fifth floor and, after arriving at the desk, I was greeted by a member of staff who said hello before immediately informing me – rather sharply – that she was busy and I’d have to wait. My first thought was: don’t say hello then. I also wondered what the other person at check-in was doing. I have no problem at all waiting, I just hated being spoken to like I was something that was dragged in from the street.
Eventually we checked in. Every guest receives a voucher for a complimentary drink, which sounds exciting until you discover your options are water, coffee or half a pint of beer.
The room was small and came with just one pillow per person. Jono needs two because of his curved spine, so I requested another. I was told there might not be any available. After a lengthy exchange with Marriott customer support on social media, no pillow materialised. To be fair, they did add some points to my account, although at this point I’m not convinced I’ll be rushing back.
While Jono rested, I headed into Cologne again to visit the Chocolate Museum. It was the only major tourist attraction I visited during the trip and I enjoyed it. You learn about the history of chocolate, see part of the production process and get a couple of chocolates to sample. Visitors receive a Lindor chocolate on arrival, a piece from one of the production lines and a wafer dipped into the chocolate fountain.
I believe guided tours and tasting experiences are available at weekends, which I’d probably recommend. Much of the standard visit involves reading information boards, which may or may not be your thing.
Afterwards I visited the chocolate café and ordered strawberries covered in chocolate. They were delicious. The service, unfortunately, was less so. Despite the café being relatively quiet, I waited quite a while to be served, and also a while to pay when I finished.
I bought a ticket which also included a ride on the giant wheel overlooking the Rhine. The weather was beautiful and the views were excellent. Cologne struck me as a city with plenty more to offer than I managed to see during this short visit.
Before long it was time to head home. Cologne Airport is enormous compared to Ireland West, but it does have a very good supermarket, which provided breakfast before our flight.
All in all, it was an interesting trip. Düsseldorf wasn’t quite what I expected, but Little Tokyo was a highlight and the Hofgarten was lovely. Cologne was beautiful and left me wanting to return. Most importantly, Jono got to travel again. And that’s what made the trip worthwhile.
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